Heading Down Lake Michigan's Eastern Shore

Repairs and a trip home

7-14 August – Irish Boat Shop, Harbor Springs, MI

On Wednesday, the boat got hauled out of the water, props removed, then lowered back into the water

at a slip very near the service buildings. Although only the port prop was damaged, they sent both to Henry Smith’s prop shop near Detroit, so they could match them. Turns out they could not repair the port prop, so I got a new one and a refurbished one for the starboard side. Got my fuel filters changed. And we explored Harbor Springs – a very nice town. We biked about, stopping at gift shops and art galleries. We enjoyed dinner at Dudley’s Deck overlooking
the neighboring marina. Walking back, we saw a different kind of beach volleyball that looked pretty fun. On Thursday, Enterprise Rental Car picked us up and took us to their office in Petosky across the harbor where we rented a vehicle and drove to and parked at the Detroit airport. Although we requested a compact car, they gave us a 4WD crew cab pickup truck
(like the kind we rent when we go skiing in Colorado). It was quite comfortable. We flew home to Tampa, getting a Super Shuttle ride home about 2 AM.

On Friday Charli got some dental work done and bought an iPad (for navigation and planning). Al trimmed bushes, cleaned gutters,, chlorinated the pool, and changed the water in the hot tub. On Saturday we drove up to the Seagrass Resort in Homosassa where we surprised many of our friends

who were scalloping and celebrating an early birthday for our friend
Bob. We partied and stayed overnight on a pullout couch. On Sunday we went to Kent’s graduation party. Kent just graduated with his PhD in microbiology.

Monday was spent working around the mothership. On Tuesday Bob, Joan, Charli, and Al took limo to Tampa airport, flight to Detroit, then drove our pickup to Harbor Springs. On Wednesday, we went to farmer’s market for bread and produce where we met up with Dave and Jan from Dawntreader, always good to see them.

We drove north to the “tunnel of trees” – a narrow winding road through the forest overlooking Lake Michigan – awesome. Had lunch on the patio of the Legs Inn – an unusual polish restaurant

overlooking Lake Michigan. Stopped at the IGA for provisions.
Dined with other loopers, including Dawn Treader, Osprey, Mooring Dove.

Heading Down Lake Michigan’s Eastern Shore

Thursday, 15 August – Harbor Springs to Charlevoix – 22 mi., 3178 cum mi.

Beautiful day, 71 degrees, a bit breezy. Our props came in, but we had to wait for Mooring Dove to get his props on and get lowered into the water, so we went to see a tall ship – a 74-ft schooner- that pulled in at the end off the dock. Called the Inland Seas, it is sponsored by a non-profit group called the Inland Seas Education Association. They take groups of all ages on a cruise and introduce them to the science and spirit of the Great Lakes. And they invited us to join them on their morning cruise. We sailed, we netted some fish, and we scooped up some plankton and viewed them on a microscope. It was really cool!

When we got back, the Irish Boat Shop hauled us out and installed our props. After a sea trial, we were on our way to Charlevoix. It was a short cruise. We left Harbor Springs – one of the finest resort towns on Lake Michigan - at 4 PM, following Mooring Dove, arriving at the Charlevoix bascule bridge for its 6 PM opening.

Charlevoix harbor has a party atmosphere. Condos line the shore, slips full of boats having docktail parties, a dancing fountain where

kids play, and an amphitheater with a free jazz concert. You just feel the energy when you arrive.

We saw Geoff and Patty (on Osprey), and we met other loopers – Gary and Kathy on After Taxes (Gary is a CPA), and Jonathon and Brooke on a 22-ft mini tug C-

Dory called Salty. And we were surprised to see Joe (from Freewheelin) who quit the loop and was riding his new motorcycle
down the Michigan coast. Our fly bridge was big enough for all to enjoy docktails. Nice end to a long but exciting day.

Friday, 16 August -  Charlevoix to Leland – 33 mi., 3211 cum mi.

Another beautiful day, 61 degrees. We enjoyed breakfast with Osprey. Geoff made yummy blueberry pancakes and a fresh pot of coffee. Al made scrambled eggs and maple sausage that we bought at the Harbor Springs farmer’s market. Salty and Mooring Dove headed for the islands, while, after fueling up, we headed for Leland with After Taxes.  Leland is said to be one of the most picturesque towns on the northern Michigan coast.

 Downtown Leland was just a block away from the municipal harbor. At the marina was Old Fish Town, with gift shops, ice cream parlors, and fish markets. We sampled some MI craft beers at a pub, tasted and bought wine at

a vintner, and bought some fresh fish sausage and salmon for dinner. We met Larry Kruger who took 13 years to restore a 1971 Dodge

Charger R/T – what a nice looking car! We saw an amphibious car. And we met new loopers – Bill and Lora on Entrée – who just started the loop yesterday. Over docktails, Kathy (After Taxes) shared her bounty – clothing items she bought for $5 each at the sidewalk sale. That became a new challenge – beat or match those bargains.

Into Michigan

Friday, 2 August – Blind River to Drummond Island – 42 mi., 3035 cum mi.

Calm, partly cloudy, 56 degrees. We cruised calm open seas, passing some islands, including Propeller Island which we dared not get near (for obvious reasons). It started raining as we approached Drummond Island. We entered the USA at 10:20 AM. Although we enjoyed Canada and her people, it was
just a good feeling to be back in the USA. Back to unlimited cell phone data and normal minutes without the huge surcharges. When we arrived at the Drummond Island fuel dock, a customs officer boarded the boat (no pictures allowed), asked some questions, and took away 3 clementines and a lime. He was not very friendly. We heard later that he was the only border officer there who isn’t friendly, but we didn’t have any problems – just his attitude needed a little adjustment. We loaded up with the least expensive fuel we’ve seen since leaving New York. And we took down the courtesy Canadian flag we
were flying. Later we met some kids who were checking out the boats at the marina. They were attending a sailing camp and had just arrived.  We eventually recognized one of them as Jacob from Jericho, VT – who went to nursery school with our granddaughter, Chloe. We couldn’t believe how we bumped into someone we knew!

Saturday, 3 August – Drummond Island to DeTour – 6 mi., 3041 cum mi.

Clear, breezy, 57 degrees. We got an early start toward Mackinac Island, but the winds got too rough, and they issued a small craft advisory, so we spun around and sought refuge at DeTour Harbor Marina. We were followed by several other boats seeking refuge from the winds, including Mooring Dove (Galen and Becky)

– gold loopers on their second time around. DeTour turned out to be
a jewel. The IGA grocery also sold liquor – so cool after all the provincial LCBO stores in Ontario. We discovered a
local hangout with the greatest wet burritos. And they had a concert
in the park next to the marina- a great band and lots of fun-loving people on ATVs, bikes, including a couple who just bought a Nordic Tug and were planning on doing the loop next year.

Sunday, 4 August – Detour to Mackinac Island – 37 mi., 3078 cum mi.

Blue sky, breezy, but not windy, 59 degrees. What a difference a day makes! The winds calmed down, so the cruise to Mackinac Island was so much more pleasant today. The island is a tourist mecca. Parasails in outside the harbor, lots of boat traffic, including at least three ferries coming from different Michigan towns across the Straits, horse-drawn carriages, and lots of tourists on foot or bicycles (no cars are allowed on the island), and a busy marina, including kayakers.

 We docked next to another looper boat –
JimKat – with really nice folks – Jim and Kathy from Cincinnati.

We biked around the 8-mile circumference of the island, including
past Arch Rock and through the state park. Beachcombers were piling up rocks into cairns - don't know why. We dined with Jim and Kathy at the Pink Pony – great food on a deck overlooking the hotel’s hot tub and our marina.

Monday, 5 August – Mackinac Island to Beaver Island – 43 mi., 3121 cum mi.

Beautiful day, 60 degrees.  We left with our new friends on JimKat.

The lighthouses and the Mackinac
bridge were our landmarks through the Straits of Mackinac. And the ferries were already bringing more tourists to the island, some of them were turbos – like jet skis – no props, but a lot of water squirting out behind the boat. As we went further west, it turned cloudy and windy, especially across the open water

toward Beaver Island. Then it rained, but that didn’t keep us from enjoying dinner with Jim and Kathy.

Tuesday, 6 August – Beaver Island to Harbor Springs – 35 mi., 3121 cum mi.

Mostly cloudy, breezy, 66 degrees. The south winds were not calming down as predicted, and we hesitated in cruising in the 2-4 ft seas, but we did – at an angle - and we survived, with an occasional
6 footer that gave us a roller coaster ride.  We headed for the Irish Boat Shop for service, including a haul out and prop repair (remember when we grazed a rock in Roger’s Gut in the North Channel?). And we met more loopers. We docked next to Mooring Dove who was in for similar repairs.

Canadian Hospitality

 Thursday, 1 August – Blind River Marine Park

Partly cloudy, 60 degrees. Pretty calm in the morning (turned into nice day, but quite windy in the

afternoon). We planned to leave early to take advantage of the calm morning breeze. But the adventure started when the port engine would not start. Not even a click. Starboard engine started up without a hitch, but the port was definitely dead. I started troubleshooting, looking for a simple explanation. Battery was OK. Ignition switch worked yesterday, besides why would both upper and lower helms suddenly have bad ignition switches? I soon had my voltmeter out and the DC distribution panel apart. I waited for the marina to open to seek help. Daryl came over with his probe. We probed, measured, traced wires, to no avail. I called my friend, Ron – an electrician – and went through some good troubleshooting suggestions. Nothing seemed to explain the strange behavior. I went to the marine shop to see if they had a mechanic who could help. Their senior mechanic was on holiday until next Tuesday. While at the counter lamenting my predicament, I met Roger buying spark plugs for his outboard. “What’s wrong? he asked. “Do you want me to look at it?” After producing cards showing

he was a certified heavy machinery mechanic, I took him up on his offer. He was in town shopping with his wife, Brenda. While Charli took Brenda on a tour of the boat, Roger was methodically tracing the wiring from the battery to the ignition breakers, while I held a flashlight and voltmeter. Hard to believe how he fit between the boat wall and the port engine to get to all the wiring. Bottom line – Roger found that the cable coming from the battery to the starter was loose. Tightening that connection solved the problem. My hero! He wanted no compensation, taking joy in helping a stranded American. I talked
them into going to lunch – my treat – the least I could do. Thank you Roger! A great example of Canadian hospitality and generosity. Later, when we returned to the marina, we met Murray and Leslie on Big Blue, another Mainship 400 trawler.  Murray was from Waterloo, ON, and we were surprised to learn that he knew Barry (who will be renting our beach house this winter) from minor league baseball in Waterloo. Small world. And they gave us some clips that we were looking for – that fit on our 1.25 inch rails. Very gracious. On our last night in Canada over a glass of wine at sunset, we reflected on the nice folks we met in Canada – Peggy and her baked
goods and pictures, Roger and his eagerness to solve our problem, Murray and Leslie and their generosity, all the loopers, and all the docktail parties we shared with our new found Canadian friends. Thank you all! Life is good.